What comes to mind when you think of the term “island paradise”? Close your eyes for a moment and picture it. Crystal clear, impossibly blue water, sparkling like diamonds under the bright, warm sun. White clouds floating peacefully in an equally impossibly blue sky. One sandy island after another, of various shapes and sizes, each providing a spot of dry land and a bit of shade thanks to a palm tree or two, cheerful tropical foliage swaying in the gentle breeze. Starfish dotting the shoreline and hundreds of tropical fish swimming around in an elegant, colorful display.
In the eyes of some, climate change and rising sea levels will cause the entire archipelago to disappear by the end of the 21st century.
That would be a sad state of affairs for a variety of reasons, including the loss of these small paradises and the ecological diversity they offer. But the biggest of all? The Guna people, a sovereign indigenous people who not only call this archipelago home but share it with visitors in their own autonomous tourism network, would be forced to relocate to the mainland.
The San Blas Islands are technically part of Panama. But in reality, this is an autonomous indigenous province, run by the Guna people. It is one of the 6 “Indigenous comarcas” in Panama.
What is a “Comarca”?
A comarca is literally a shared brand of land. This is an administrative division in which both the government and the indigenous people are recognized, with the understanding that the people of that land are sovereign, autonomous.
It is also a fairly common arrangement in the US, where certain areas are set aside for Native people. These are usually referred to as “reservations” in the US, and by law, the land is owned and governed by Native people and their own laws.
The other 5 regions in Panama are:
● Emberá-Wounaan (founded in 1983)● Guna Madungandi (founded in 1996)● Ngäbe-Buglé (founded in 1997)● Guna Wargandí (founded in 2000)● Naso Tjër Di Comarca (founded in 200)
San Blas Islands Map
The Guna Yala Region is not just the 365 islands that make up the San Blas Archipelago. It also includes a stunning 230-mile stretch of pristine rainforest along Panama's eastern Caribbean coast.
Guna Yala is located on the Caribbean coast, east of the Panama Canal, and is an area known for world-class sailing. However, if the islands disappear as predicted due to rising sea levels, many sailboats will be left without wind. San Blas will quickly become a difficult area to navigate a sailboat due to all the underwater speed bumps.
Are all the islands uninhabited?
Of the 365 islands, only 49 are inhabited by the Guna people. The 2010 census indicates 31,500 Guna Yala inhabitants.
There are no major tourist attractions or resorts on any of the San Blas Islands, but there are scattered Guna communities. A large percentage of the islands are simply uninhabited, while others are closed to tourists.
Going back to the sovereignty of the Guna people and the governance of their own land, tourism in San Blas is entirely operated by them, so they make the decisions. Everything is left to their discretion, and this has helped them maintain control of the natural beauty of Guna Yala, the traditions of the Guna people, and much more. For tours in the San Blas Islands, this means that travelers are not able to freely explore the islands. Wherever you go, you will be accompanied by a guide, one of the Guna.
How to describe the weather in Panama's San Blas Islands? For those in the know, it's about as close to perfect as you can get in this year-round destination. Temperatures remain mild on average year-round (27°C/82°F), and hurricanes aren't a problem like they are in other tropical destinations.
The summer season is from December/January to April/May, and during this time you can expect dry and windy conditions.
The winter season runs from May/June to November/December, bringing with it calmer, rainier days.
That said, there is a lot of variation in the weather throughout the year, so rain occurs in the summer and dry spells and heat can also occur during the winter months.
When is the best time to visit San Blas?
Weather-wise, it's always a good time to visit San Blas. So, the best time for you and the trip you want to take should come down to the things you want to do and see in San Blas, your planned tours and activities.
For example, the month of November is marked by Fiestas Patrias (National Days)… a month of holidays with celebration after celebration, parade after parade, commemorating and displaying Panamanian pride in their roots and traditions. Colorful costumes, traditional dances, drum marches, military revelry, it’s non-stop action all month long. By the way, all of those holidays are bank holidays, so November is a time when everyone should plan ahead and be patient. Depending on whether you want to be a part of the festivities (or not), November is a great time (or not) to vacation in San Blas.
If sailing is something you're going to do, it may be best to come during the dry season so there's plenty of wind to sail in - you can sail all year round. But all that wind can muddy up the waters a bit. So if snorkelling is also a big thing, you may want to come closer to the shoulder season, late summer/early winter or late winter/early summer.
Or just come when other factors dictate it like Fiestas Patrias, and take your chances. Really, even if it rains during the dry season, it's often just a quick shower… nothing to write home about. And it bears repeating: this region doesn't get hurricanes, offering year-round peace of mind no matter what.
The Indigenous People of Guna Yala
All six indigenous groups of Panama are still present and visible today, which is not true for other countries in Central and Latin America. Officially established in 1938, the Guna people were the first indigenous group in Latin America to gain autonomy. A triumph, not only for the Guna but for all other marginalized indigenous peoples in Panama and beyond.
The Guna, like other indigenous communities in Panama, have implemented community-based tourism on their own terms. They welcome tourists (with restrictions) into their villages, share their traditions, sell food such as freshly caught fish, coconuts, and crafts made by locals.
The Regional Economy of Guna Yala
For the Guna people, the economy is based mainly on tourism, artisanal production, agriculture and seafood.
Although most of the agriculture in the region is for local consumption, bananas, corn, sugar cane and coconuts are produced as a means of income. Fish are caught by hand, using a line, and you will also find octopus, squid, crabs and lobsters for sale.
Guna Yala Molas
Molas are traditional handmade panels, crafts, and clothing made by Guna women. It is a process that involves multiple layers of fabric that are sewn together, one on top of the other. Then, with elaborate cutouts, the different colors are revealed and an image is created. Traditionally, these images represented the same shapes they would paint on their bodies, but over time the designs have expanded to include animals, abstract concepts, and more.
Where farming and shellfish gathering tend to be left to men, mola-making is the main money-making activity for Guna women. In fact, for many families, skillfully sewn molas constitute their main source of income. Sometimes when we buy souvenirs, we don’t actually support the local economy. But each mola you buy is a true piece of Panamanian culture and you can be sure that it will directly benefit the people. Why? Because no one but the Guna can legally make and sell molas. If you are buying it in Guna Yala, you are helping someone.
How the Guna People Emerged
The Guna indigenous tribe has a long history predating the existence of Panama and Central America.
When the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Central America in the 16th century, they expelled all the indigenous tribes from Panama. The Guna people dispersed to what is now Guna Yala, the San Blas Islands, where life was easier than they had found in the jungle.
Although they prospered in their new home on the coastal island, conflicts and hardships were constant, including a battle with the government in 1925 over their independence. Their mission was successful, but they eventually agreed to become part of Panama. The caveat? They had to remain a sovereign nation, which they did.
According to the 2010 census, there were about 31,000 Guna people living in the San Blas archipelago, although the entire Guna population is estimated to be around 300,000. All of the Guna leaders occupy an island called Acuadup. This is where many of the important issues are discussed and decisions are made for the community.
Dulegaya: The Official Language Of The Guna Yala
In the native language of the Guna people, known as Dulegaya, they call themselves “dule” or “tule,” which means “people.” The literal translation of the name of their language is “mouth of people.”
Dulegaya belongs to the Chibcha language family and is only spoken by the indigenous Guna people of Panama and Colombia.
As you may have already gathered from the previous point about the impossibility of moving freely around the islands, tourism is strictly regulated by the Guna people. This actually makes it incredibly easy to plan a trip to San Blas… You literally just book a tour and everything is included – transportation, activities and meals are all part of the package, organised by your hosts.
But keep in mind: If you have a hard time with others making the decisions, it can be difficult. Of course, when booking a tour, you have different options for price, length of stay, and other ways to make sure you get what you want out of the experience. If you have dietary restrictions, for example, they will accommodate you, but the less restrictive you can be in all aspects, the smoother the trip will go.
There are three great ways to experience San Blas/Guna Yala: a quick day trip, staying overnight for one or more nights, or renting a sailboat and sailing around the islands. Each is a totally unique experience in relation to the others.
San Blas Day Trip:
It’s a 2.5 hour drive from Panama City and a 30 minute water taxi ride to all the snorkeling, swimming and beach relaxing you can handle! A 5am departure from Panama City may seem extremely early, but it means you’ll be on the beach by around 9:30am, which is about as close to perfect as it gets. Lunch is included and an additional trip to one of the other islands, before returning in the late afternoon. Expect to be back in Panama City by dinner time. Check it out here .
You’ll arrive in the morning and settle in, then the action begins! You’ll have the chance to visit another island and do some swimming and snorkeling before lunch is served. After your meal, you can relax a bit before heading back for some swimming and snorkeling. Once you complete your second trip of the day, it’s time for dinner, followed by an exquisite sunset and the most peaceful sleep you’ve had in years, thanks to a soundtrack of gentle waves. This will be your daily routine for however many days you book. Learn more about an overnight stay in San Blas here .
And remember: Tourism in the San Blas Islands is strictly managed by the Guna people. The rules they have help protect their way of life and the land they call home. So the experience provided is largely the same no matter who you book through. This also applies whether you book a 3-day tour, for example, or 3-day accommodation. All activities are optional, of course, but substitutions and deviations are generally not allowed. Snorkel, relax, eat, swim, repeat – that’s basically the mantra.
Sailing in San Blas:
From the moment you leave the port of Panama City, it’s a unique experience that few people get to enjoy. Spend your days cruising around the islands and the jewel-like blue Caribbean Sea, docking at various islands to enjoy water sports and activities like beach volleyball, kayaking, snorkeling, hiking and exploring, and even a traditional Guna dance demonstration. Your guide will be there throughout the experience, of course. You’ll enjoy the freshest food and sleep on deck under the stars, on the beach, or in a hammock. You’ve never “had it this bad” before!
Top 10 Things to Do in San Blas
The list of things to do in San Blas is relatively short:
★ Swim★ Snorkel★ Relax★ Eat★ De-stress★ Buy all the molas★ Take a weight off your shoulders★ Enjoy the sunset★ Decompress★ Sleep deeply
Of course, the entire region is incredibly beautiful. And there are plenty of Instagram-worthy landscapes everywhere, but what you see and where you go is not up to you. People love Isla Perro, for example. And it may happen that they go there. But visitors don’t get to choose where their guide takes them – it’s all up to their Guna hosts. This goes back to that business of “going with the flow.” If you can let go of the need to control the itinerary, you’re likely to have a wonderful time no matter what you see and do.
A word to the wise: sailing sounds like a great thing to do in San Blas, but you may have noticed that it's not on the full list of 10 things to do above. That's because it's not the kind of thing you can just do… it's not an activity in and of itself. Remember: booking a tour or booking accommodations are the same thing. This is also true for sailboats and catamarans. They are tours as well as accommodations.
Although the location itself is fairly remote, getting to San Blas is not as difficult or daunting as it may seem. Driving to the port is easy, and the boat ride is pleasant. Transportation is often included in the price of your San Blas experience, so you may not have to worry about the details of how to get there.
Panama City is the gateway through which most people arrive to San Blas, so there are plenty of people who know how to get there and options to make the trip easier. For many travelers, in fact, San Blas is the destination. They fly into Panama City and head straight to the islands.
Although San Blas/Guna Yala is its own autonomous province, it's not difficult to get into and you don't need a visa or anything. Visitors must show their passports and pay a $20 fee. But this is something to keep in mind. Your hosts will likely take care of everything, you'll just provide the money and passport.
Remember: Tours and accommodations are one and the same. You may not have much choice in what you do, but you really don't have to plan much. And all the support you need is right there. It's okay to sit back and relax. Make the reservation and you'll be in good hands.
There are several flight options from Panama City to San Blas via Air Panama, and prices range from $50 to $150 USD. Not bad for a direct flight to paradise!
According to the Air Panama website you can fly from Panama to:
★ Achutupo (ACU)★ Corazón de Jesús (CZJ)★ El Porvenir (PVE)★ Malatupo (MPP)★ Playón Chico (PYC)★ Puerto Obaldía (PUE)
These are all airstrips in Guna Yala, you just need to choose the one that makes the most sense for your itinerary.
If you prefer to fly, please let your host know and they will help you sort out the details. Chartering a plane to San Blas is also an option. Check out Aero Albrook for itineraries, aircraft options, and prices.
How much time do you need in San Blas?
For most people, 2-3 days in San Blas is enough. But honestly, it depends on who you are and what you’re thinking. If you really need to unplug, 3+ days can do you a world of good. Keep in mind, though, that this experience is simple… there’s no wifi, no restaurants, no shops… so it’s a lot of time for “you.” Lots of opportunities to sit, gaze at the sea, and daydream about life. If you’re someone who finds it hard to take a chill pill, the first day can be a big adjustment. But that’s why you need this experience!
There is an old saying about meditation that goes:
“You should sit and meditate for 20 minutes a day. Unless you are too busy, then you should sit for an hour.”
How much time should you spend in San Blas? That depends… how busy you are?
As far as big name hotels and resorts go, you won't find any in the San Blas archipelago. But honestly, that's not the way it should be experienced anyway. In fact, San Blas is so pristine and simple that even a hotel of any size would ruin the ambiance of the whole place.
Also, as you know, the Guna people run the tourism show. And if they strike you as people who wouldn't be too interested in partnering with American companies, you'd be right.
Let the locals take care of you… let them show you, with pride, the place they call home. Sip rum from a coconut. Eat perfectly grilled fresh fish, pulled straight from the sea (probably by your host). Feel the warmth of the bonfire. Listen to stories from your hosts. Sleep in a hammock.
What should I pack for San Blas?
No matter what time of year you're visiting, here are some essential items to pack during your trip to San Blas:
★ Light layers★ Sandals or flip-flops★ Swimsuits★ Quick-drying towel★ Biodegradable sunscreen★ Insect repellent★ Hat★ Sunglasses★ Bag to store your electronics
You will likely need to pack a smaller suitcase for your San Blas excursion as the boat (or plane) will have weight restrictions. If that is the case, you can leave the rest of your luggage at your hotel in Panama City, or there are also lockers at the port if that better suits your itinerary. This is a common request from hotels in Panama City, so even if you are not staying there, one of several hotels may be able to store your luggage for you during your stay in San Blas.
Will I need to bring my passport?
Speaking of things to pack, it's very important to remember to bring your passport to San Blas! In some ways, it's like going to another country, as you're leaving one government's land and entering another. The Kuna checkpoint is where passports are checked, and if you don't have yours, they'll send it back.
For certain excursions, copies of your passport are required. As a general rule, take 3-5 copies just to be safe.
Is there WiFi?
Wi-Fi, as you can probably guess, doesn't really exist on the San Blas Islands. Most people use Digicel mobile data, which is passable for most people's vacation web browsing needs. If you want to work while on vacation in San Blas (why?), using your phone as a hotspot is unlikely to be enough for you. It's best to bring some books and any other analogous activities you enjoy, and use your time in San Blas as an opportunity to relax and unwind.
Are there ATMs in San Blas?
There are no ATMs in San Blas, so it's important to bring all the cash you'll need with you. There won't be a lot of things to spend your money on, but $100-$150 should be more than enough to buy a mola or two, the $22 entrance fee, other souvenirs that catch your eye, and some coco locos.
Does San Blas have modern amenities?
In many ways, San Blas is the epitome of “desbasto.” Even water and toilet paper aren’t necessarily a given. Particularly if you’re going on a day trip, it’s a common request that you bring water with you. Toilet paper, too. However, especially as San Blas becomes more popular, many travelers find that the facilities are well stocked and they don’t need the TP they brought. But not always. Follow your hosts’ advice, whatever it may be, and you’ll be fine.
You may not even have electricity or hot water consistently, which means no air conditioning either, and a flushing toilet isn't always part of the package. If you need these things, you can find them, you'll just have to do your homework.
Are there many bugs in San Blas?
Yes. Although it varies throughout the year, of course. But keep in mind that you will need bug spray and plan accordingly! Don't skimp on the bug spray!
Do I need to speak Dulegaya to visit San Blas?
It is not necessary to speak the local language of the Guna people, Dulegaya, but knowing a few key phrases in Spanish is a great sign of respect and will help you break the ice. Using an offline translator is always a good idea.
DO NOT touch the starfish!
One of the best things about San Blas is how crystal clear the water is and how bright the colors are. The orange starfish on the white sand in the clear blue water is like a beacon for tourists. You'll just want to hold it up and take a selfie with it. But don't touch them. Touching starfish can kill them, even if you're the gentlest person on Earth.
San Blas: A Perfect Paradise For The Well Prepared
It's hard not to fall in love with San Blas, with the perfection found in its simplicity. The most important thing is to do your homework and know what you're getting into. This is one of those bucket list-worthy destinations that you'll want to get right, so you can experience it the way it was meant to be experienced: simple.
San Blas doesn't lie; what you see is what you get. And it's all right in front of you, waiting to be experienced, internalized, and appreciated.
Many people find that once they visit San Blas, they have to return. Without a doubt, this gift from Mother Nature is one we will want to treasure for as long as we can. With predictions that the islands may be the first in the world to disappear due to the effects of climate change, the effect that we, humans and the industries we support, have on the planet is very real.
A trip to San Blas can remind us of the effect we have on everything we touch, the importance of slowing down and truly appreciating the people and things we encounter in daily life.
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